I built this table using the plans for the X Coffee Table, just modified to be taller and narrower. The finished dimensions ended up being about 27" square by 24" tall. The finish is the same oxidized finish as the other two tables. We're really happy with the size of the table -- it fits nicely between our big sofa and big chair and the height makes it a perfect place to set a big bowl of popcorn while we watch a movie.
I'm still on the lookout for a big basket or canvas tote or maybe a galvanized tub to go on the bottom shelf. I've been keeping a down throw on that shelf, but if I can find something bulky to put it in, I think the table will be complete!
Psst...Ana White put together plans for this end table and posted them here! Thanks, Ana!
Woo hoo! I've been waiting for this one! Can't wait to make a pair of these and the matching coffee table ( I've been waiting for school to start so I only have one kiddo to handle while I work). You've done a beautiful job on yours, thank you for sharing!
ReplyDeleteAwesome! Hopefully Ana will create plans, but in the meantime if you get to work on it and have questions, feel free to ask away!
DeleteWhere did you get the trim pieces for the corners and the bolt heads for the legs?
DeleteHey, Judd. They came from Lowe's and I spray painted them black.
DeleteI'm loving the X tables. And the oxidation is SO cool. Hubby and I are going to make some X tables, and I want to oxidize it too! It's so beautiful. I have a question though...total newB to this stuff so please excuse the ignorance... but should there be a wood conditioner used prior to the oxidation, or is the black tea treatment taking care of that? I understand that the wood conditioner is supposed to keep your wood from staining all blotchy-like. Also can you be a little more specific on how to make that tea "really strong black tea?" I don't really make tea, so I am not sure about that point. Thanks in advance. I love your blog! :)
ReplyDeleteHi, Jeanne! Nope, no wood conditioner needed for this. You can always do some test scraps to see if it makes a difference for you, but I don't think it is needed, at least not on solid wood. Maybe on plywood?
DeleteReally strong black tea...I'm not super exact at recipes, so forgive me. Probably ten tea bags in about two quarts of hot water. Let it steep for an hour or so, squeeze out the tea bags and you should be good to go. I don't drink much tea either, but I'm thinking this concoction wouldn't be drinkable. :) The tea I used on the coffee table and side table was brewed when I made the console -- a good month before making the other two tables. It must be a forgiving process!
How well does the oxidation work on veneered woods like oak or hard board? I have built the sideboard piece and I am now trying to find out how I want to finish it. I like the weathered look, but have never done it before.
ReplyDeleteHey, Joe! Sorry to say...I have no idea! I haven't tried veneered wood, but it would definitely be worth a try. If you test out a scrap piece, let me know how it comes out! Or send a photo and I'll post it.
DeleteGorgeous! Oh my gosh I'm in love. What a great table!
ReplyDeleteDana
craftedniche.com
What type of wood would you reccomend to use?
ReplyDeleteI would steer clear of redwood because it will turn black if you oxidize it. Other than that, whatever is available should be fine.
DeleteI was thinking of altering the design slightly bit and using 4x4s for the legs but both Lowes and Home Depot didnt have any good ones. The only one they had in that size was dark gray/green framing lumber.
DeleteThank you for your help by the way. :-)
Oh, yeah, that's pressure treated lumber. You don't want to use that unless you have to. I find that the best 4x4s come from people's blown-down fences. If you see a fence being removed or if you see one down in someone's yard, ask for the posts. They're super for building and cedar oxidizes to the BEST weathered color.
DeleteI just did a table with the oxidized mixture. I got it to the perfect shade. I put some water based poly on it and it turned dark brown. Any suggestions on how to save the table or do I need to sand again? I read that wax wouldnt be good for a house with kids? Please help!!
ReplyDeleteBummer! My tables are waxed (and actually, the dining room table that I just sold this weekend was waxed too) and they are fine with my kids, but my kids know to treat our furniture with respect. :) The waxed pieces just require a bit more maintenance than poly'd pieces. Some water-based poly coats are better than others when it comes to darkening wood. I've heard that the new Rustoleum matte soft touch doesn't change the color much. The PolyWhey I use isn't too bad about changing the color, although it depends on the species of wood, too.
DeleteIf you decide to strip it, try Mostenbocker's lift off. It's good stuff -- green and strips relatively easily.
If the table is totally poly'd (like you coated the entire thing, not just one test spot), you might try a coat of liming wax (Briwax makes a good one)? It might lighten it up enough for you. You can test it and strip it off with vinegar really easily if you don't like it. Wax over poly is easier to care for than wax over raw/stained wood.
Let me know what you find!
Thanks for your response! I tested on another oak piece I was doing and it turned out great so I did the whole damn table thinking it would dry light but it didnt. Ruined my whole day. Cant wait to drag this thing back into the garage and start over. I really loved the light Restoration Hardware look we had gotten to. Does the brand of wax matter? I have seen SC Johnson in our Home Depot. How do you care for a waxed table with no poly? Crayon and markers come off? Will it survive such uses as sewing machine, playdough etc?
DeleteThat totally stinks, I'm so sorry! I know how you feel, though -- experimenting is supposed to be part of the fun of building, but sometimes it's just a PITA.
DeleteI haven't used any brands of wax besides Briwax and Staples, so I can't really say about the SC Johnson wax -- sorry! Of the two I've used, Staples seems to give the hardest finish and it definitely has a less offensive smell. My kids haven't gotten crayon or markers on my table, but we have dealt with a sewing machine and playdough without problems. The good thing about wax is that you can take it off (and therefore, whatever is on its surface) using vinegar. Now, if your kid colors on it with a Sharpie I can't make any guarantees as it might go right through to the wood. But normal marker or crayon? Probably okay. Especially if you've built up a few good layers of wax. Just put a little clear wax on a cloth and the marker or crayon should buff right out. And marks from sewing machine feet or other appliances can be buffed out with a soft dry cloth.
To care for a waxed finish, I clean it with a dry microfiber cloth or a damp microfiber cloth and reapply wax every six-ish months (depending on how much the piece is used). Just don't use ammonia or vinegar-based cleaners on it b/c you'll strip it.
Home Depot carries something called Feed-n-Wax, I think? Here's a link: http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-feed-n-wax.php. It might be a good one to use in between waxings, or using it every month or so might eliminate the need for adding additional coats of Briwax or Staples at all. I just haven't gotten around to testing it out yet.
Good luck!
Hi Hillary,
ReplyDeleteYour website, ideas, and 'trial and error' approach are very inspiring,
I am in the process of building two X End Tables,
I have picked Walnut for this project, it looks amazing, especially after fine sanding,
I have also decided to leave it naturhal.
However, I have to put on some sort of coat for protection as well as bringing out the beautiful purple/grey/brown shades of the walnut
Question - what material you recommend using, clear wax? Or is there better water based material? also, if you recommend "poly", whats the exact name and make?
Hi, AG. The finish depends on how durable/low maintenance you want it to be. I would use clear wax (I like the Staples brand, I get it at Woodcrafters), but someone who is harder on their furniture than I am should use something else. For that, I'd use Vermont Natural Coatings' PolyWhey. I get it at a local store here, but they have distributors all over. Check their website.
DeleteThe PolyWhey will bring out more color than the wax, but it will be a tiny bit shinier, too. Good luck!
Hillary - This table looks awesome! I made my way over from Ana White. This may be a silly question, but where did you get the black elbow at the table corners, and the dark decorative screws?
ReplyDeleteHi, Chris. They're just regular screws and L brackets, painted with flat black spray paint.
DeleteCan you tell me where you got your lamp? Thanks!!
ReplyDeleteYep! Home Depot. It came in a set with two table lamps and one floor lamp. It's been maybe 5-6 years since we bought them.
Delete