Recently I built another beautiful farmhouse table for a client, but made a few modifications from the original Ana White plan and I thought I'd share them with you here, as well as the modified cut list and shopping list, in case you need a scaled-down version of the 7' table.
Plus, if I write it all here then the next time I build a 6' farmhouse table I won't have to lose my mind doing addition and subtraction with fractions.
I started with 2x8 and 2x10 stock for the top, but in order to make the top flat (no grooves from the rounded edges of framing lumber), Scott and I ran all of the lumber for the top through the table saw and ripped off a little over a quarter inch from each edge. It wasn't a super precise process, but it did the job.
So, for the top, we ended up with 2x8s that were actually about 2x6 3/8 and 2x10s that were about 2x8 3/8.
The top was made of 3 ripped 2x8s and 2 ripped 2x10s, giving it an overall width of about 36 1/2". When I placed the planks, I alternated them 2x8-2x10-2x8-2x10-2x8.
Another modification I made was to use one of the ripped 2x10s on the breadboard, to give a little more depth for a person sitting at the end. I also flipped the legs around so that the end support, which holds up the stretcher, is on the inside of the table instead of the outside. That gives the person sitting at the end an extra inch and a half for their legs. I know it doesn't sound like much, but with the wider breadboard, it totals about ten inches of space for that end of the table versus about six inches of space in the original plan, making the head and foot more comfortable seats at the table.
Here's my cut list for the 72"x36 1/2" farmhouse table (keep in mind that my 2x10s and 2x8s are ripped down to narrower sizes):
- 2 - 2x10 @ 55" (top)
- 3 - 2x8 @ 55" (top)
- 1 - 2x10 @ 36 1/2" (breadboard ends -- build your top first, then measure and cut this to get a precise fit.)
- 2 - 2x4 @ 53 1/2" (side aprons)
- 2 - 2x4 @ 24" (end aprons)
- 2 - 24 @ 31" (lower supports)
- 1 2x4 @ 56 1/2" (stretcher)
- 4 4x4 @ 29 1/2" (legs)
And here's the shopping list:
- 4 - 2x4 @ 8ft
- 1 - 4x4 @ 10ft if you can find a straight one, or 2 4x4 @ 8ft if your ten footers are as twisted as ours.
- 3 - 2x8 @ 8ft
- 3 - 2x10 @ 8ft
- 1 - pack of 50 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
- 1 - pack of wood plugs (you'll need 12 wood plugs to fill your countersunk holes)
Here are a few more photos of the 6' Farmhouse Table.
Pssst...check out the cut list for a matching Farmhouse Bench. It slides right under this table!
Thank you for this! This table is next on our list of plans and we have been trying to figure out a solution to the lack of space on the ends of the table! Awesome job!
ReplyDeleteYou are so welcome! I'm glad it was helpful. I'm not sure that the ends would be great for daily use, but they're certainly big enough for occasional use, or maybe for a kid whose legs aren't long enough to hit the bottom support. It is a little sad, though, to lose the view of the lap joint! It's such a pretty detail. But sometimes function wins out, right?
DeleteI've also thought about skipping the breadboard ends and giving myself more overhang with the planks, but I like the look of the breadboards.
Thanks for this post! I, too, made a 6' version of Ana's farmhouse table--but I'm thinking I'll sell mine and remake another with your modifications because it's bugging me to keep hitting my shins on the ends. What kind of finish did you use?
ReplyDeleteDo it! It's so fun to re-make furniture and sell the old stuff. You could get a decent amount of money for the old table -- enough to pay for the supplies for both the old one and the new one plus a little extra, probably!
DeleteThe finish is General Finishes water-based stain in Rosewood with some Black Cherry mixed into the second coat because the Rosewood was coming out too pink. The top coat is oil-based wipe on poly in satin. I usually use a water-based sealer but had to order more and it took longer to get it in than I had time to wait, so I went back to the oil-based. It ends up having a slightly harder finish than the water-based but the smell makes it less fun to work with.
Thanks for update to the farmhouse table build. I'm curious what type of wood you are using. I built a washer/dryer pedestal for my wife with just the standard wood planks and 4x4s from Home Depot and when I tried to stain it it definitley didn't look like your stuff. I ended up using pain and antiquing it. What type of wood should I be looking for when I do the table build? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi, Kevin! Do you think your 4x4s were pressure treated? Were they green? The PT stuff doesn't take stain well.
DeleteI used Doug Fir for this table, I think. It was whatever Lowe's was carrying -- my Lowe's has better framing lumber than my HD, but my HD has better top grade lumber. I've also ordered Doug Fir 4x4s for another project from a woodworking lumber yard (the posts needed to be clear), and they're really nice (square edges instead of eased and the posts were not twisted or warped) but they were $25/8 footer.
The best farmhouse table legs are reclaimed cedar legs from fence posts. They have the most character. If I could get my hands on them often enough, that's all I'd use for table legs.
Good luck!
I have all reclaimed lumber and I am a beginner. Any tips and hints? Also, sometime in future will be selling a lot of barnwood. I live in Ky.
ReplyDeleteYou lucky woman! First, make sure all the nails/screws/hardware are removed from your reclaimed lumber. Then, as you're building, be sure to cut the split ends off your reclaimed lumber. Fresh ends work best, and sometimes you have to cut off a lot to get to a good end. Sometimes just a few inches. If you have a friend with a planer, you might want to take advantage of it. Some reclaimed lumber (or barnwood) is too rustic to use for something like an every day dining table without planing it down a bit first.
DeleteYou might get in touch with these guys: http://www.reclaimrenew.com/ about your barn. One of the owners is a friend of my brother's and they make great furniture out of barnwood, but I think they also drive around the midwest to collect barnwood for their furniture. They've got contact info on their site for people who own old barns that are ready to be torn down. Good luck! Can't wait to hear more from you!
I saw you had build that table that expands. Any tips on how to make that work? I need to have a table that sits 4 comfortably but expands to 10-12 because even 6' table is too big for a daily use at our house.
ReplyDeletethank you
Hey! Yep. Next time I build one, I'll do a full post about it, but here's the short version.
DeleteFor the short aprons on the ends, cut out two notches big enough for 2 2x2s or 2 2x4s to slide in and out. Then build two breadboard ends (maybe 18" x the table width) and join them to the 2 2x2s or 2x4s that will slide in and out of the notches you cut in the table's aprons. Here's a photo with the two breadboard ends from my most recent expandable table: https://picasaweb.google.com/hillary.dickman/Furniture#5828172177457151778 and one where you can see how they slide into the notches in the table's apron: https://picasaweb.google.com/hillary.dickman/Furniture#5828172151165042386
Here's a more complete tutorial: http://artofmanliness.com/2011/10/27/make-a-dining-room-table-by-thanksgiving/
oh, thank you!
Deleteare the leaves stored separately and have to be attached when needed?
I guess that's where I got stuck I was trying to figure out how to store them with the table for convenience.
Yep, exactly. I haven't put much time into figuring out how to store them under the table, but I'm sure there's an easy way. Let me know if you think of something brilliant. :)
Deletewell, I really like how our ikea table is engineered, I guess I'll try to see if I can find needed parts for it and do something similar. it stores the leaves inside and table top consist of two parts that get pulled apart, but the most brilliant idea, I thought, was the use of metal buckles to tightly keep all the top parts together.
DeleteIt's not that I am lazy to carry the leaves, but in the tiny place storage space is very limited. if I come up with something I'll share.
I like the modifications you made to give extra space at the ends. Could you build this table without the stretcher at all, or would it be unstable? Just a table on four legs?
ReplyDeleteI think you could, but you'd probably want to add some diagonal supports under the table, stretching from the end aprons to the side aprons.
DeleteYes, that's what I was thinking. I think I just may try it!
DeleteIf you do, let me know how it goes! I get requests for a table without the stretcher ends pretty frequently. You could also leave the stretchers on the ends and just do the top with continuous planks that hang over 12-14 inches on the ends instead of using breadboards. Planks don't need to be supported like breadboards do. I might just add a 1x3 underneath to keep them from separating.
DeleteI bought all the wood and cut it down to make the table. I am a beginner at this. Should I use the same instructions that Ana White has on her web page to make this table?
ReplyDeleteYep, follow her instructions but if you want a 6' table, use this cut list. And, you can decide whether you want to make the modification to turn the bottom ends inside-out (so your head/foot of the table have more space). If you do want that modification, then your stretcher will be 56 1/2" as listed above. If you want the bottom support flipped to the outside (like Ana's) then you'll need to add another 3" to the length on the cut list here, so 59 1/2" would be the right length.
DeleteI have some space issues in my kitchen and need a 66 or 68 inch table -- I assume I just cut all the length pieces shorter - am I right?
ReplyDeleteI have some space issues in my kitchen and need a 66 or 68 inch table -- I assume I just cut all the length pieces shorter - am I right?
ReplyDeleteYep!
ReplyDeleteWe want to use the end for a chair - what do you think will happen if we don't use the stretchers and lower supports at the bottom?
ReplyDeleteI think it might be wobbly, but you could try it. Or do the top planked without a breadboard end and then you can let it hang over farther, giving you more space for a chair. Like on this table: http://thefriendlyhome.blogspot.com/2013/02/provence-table.html
DeleteHillary,
ReplyDeleteI was looking for a 72 in plan, and this is great! I'm wanting to make the table wider, around 42 inches. My plan was to use 2x8s across the top of the table. Keeping in mind that 2x8s are actually 1 1/2 by 7 1/4, I figured that I'd end up with 7 1/4 x 6 top boards = 43.5 total width, plus or minus an inch for trimming and sanding. Do you think I'd need to increase the width of the frame, or can it handle an extra 4-6 in on your original frame plan?
Hi, Juli! I can't remember exactly what the overhang ended up being on this table, but my instinct is that you should increase the width of the frame or at least be sure that the boards on the edges are supported by the frame. Even if it's just on the seam between the two boards at the edge. I just wouldn't want the edge board not to be in contact with the apron somewhere.
Delete